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Deborah and Gwen's
Coast to Coast Diary
DAY 2 – The wet flannel day
Tuesday 18th July
Moor Row to High Gillerthwaite – 11 miles
We had left the
window and curtains wide open to aid sleep on such a hot night. As
our room faced east we woke at 5.30 a.m. with the sun streaming in
promising another hot day. Breakfasted at 8.00 and were away by
The western summit of Dent boasts a huge cairn where we took a break and had our photo taken by a passing walker. After reaching the eastern summit the decent we chose was over a giant ladder stile and directly down the hillside to the head of Uldale. It was a bit hard work on the knees but at least it was direct. Our map suggested that the path turned south through the trees but as the forest boundaries frequently change we stuck to the direct route. As we dropped towards Nannycatch Beck conditions continued to heat up and we took the opportunity to cool off at a footbridge over the stream beneath Raven Crag.
By 1.30 we were in Ennerdale Bridge where we ate our packed lunches and enjoyed a pint of lime and soda at the Hare & Hounds. With over 5 miles still to go we reluctantly left the pub heading for Ennerdale Water. We opted for the south side of the lake in hope of finding some shade. Our choice was good regarding the shade but the path was rough and rocky for most of the way. We took a short break at Robin Hoods Chair, beneath Angler's crag, I went for a swim in what few clothes I was wearing and Mum waded out up to her knees looking like Moses with her staff-like walking pole. The final few miles were long and hot. Mum needed lots of mini breaks in order to keep going and during the final mile I wrestled her pack from her suggesting that we should contact Sherpa Van to arrange a bag transfer for tomorrow.
The YHA at High Gillerthwaite was a real treat. Two forestry cottages have been converted to provide a basic but lovely hostel. We were greeted by Steve, the friendly warden who had been a teacher from Leeds. There were only two other guests so our stay was very relaxed. The showers were not the best but considering the hostel is powered by its own hydro electric system they were perfectly adequate. We enjoyed an excellent supper cooked by Andy. Cous cous salad, fresh Borrowdale trout with new potatoes and spiced apples with cream to finish.
After dinner we chatted to Steve in the lounge whilst Mum soaked her feet in a washing up bowl. We contacted Sherpa Van and arranged for Mum’s sack to be transported to Stonethwaite tomorrow, a super efficient service all for £6 – well worth it!
Thought for the day:
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