Coast to Coast 2006

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Pennine Way 2008

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Deborah and Gwen's Coast to Coast Diary
Day 5
DAY 5 – another short day
Friday 21st July
Grasmere to Patterdale – 8 miles

All our washing was perfectly dried and aired; the drying room had a very efficient fan and dehumidifier. Bev does provide simple breakfast ingredients if ordered in advance, we forgot, but managed with the last of the bread and squashed strawberries made a good substitute for jam. We made our own packed lunches and were ready to leave at 8.30.

The bridleway up to Grisedale Tarn leaves the road just below Broadrayne farm and so we were well up the hill by mid-morning. We took the right hand track up Tongue Gill. The tops were in cloud but the views back towards Grasmere gradually opened up to show glimpses of the Langdales and Old Man of Coniston. The overcast conditions made walking much more pleasant. On reaching Grisedale Tarn it was almost chilly. My waterproof jacket made its one and only appearance for about 15 minutes as we sat by a huge cairn at the head of the Grisedale valley snacking on a yummy flapjack bought from a bakery in Grasmere. We could see the zig zag path disappearing into the mist hanging over Dollywaggon Pike but could only imagine where Helvellyn might be. Because of the conditions we chose to take the valley route down into Patterdale. On reaching Ruthwaite Lodge the sun came out and the waterproofs were banished to the pack for the next 10 days. I had been under the impression that the Lodge belonged to Sheffield University Climbing Club but saw no sign to indicate this.

Henny and Albert passed us as we deliberated on which side of the valley to finish the days walk. Eating that substantial flapjack earlier meant we weren’t ready for lunch until we reached the valley floor so at 2.30 we popped into the Patterdale Hotel, bought a coffee and ate our sandwiches on the lawn out front. We chatted to a couple who were finishing the first half of their C2C at Kirkby Stephen, hoping to complete the second half next year. Apparently the gentleman had too many golfing commitments. Once 3 p.m. arrived we felt it was late enough to arrive at Barco House, a lovely B&B run by Rob and Emma and their 1 year old son. Our room had a brilliant shower and the beds had the softest pillows imaginable. As it was still early we strolled back into Glenridding to find somewhere to eat. Patterdale has only two eateries; the Hotel which looked a bit posh for us and The White Lion Inn which was incredibly hot.

Ullswater looked so beautiful in the evening light I couldn’t resist a quick photo shoot. This was the only time I regretted not having my big SLR camera and tripod. Mum made a few calls home then we went to eat at a little bistro type restaurant called Ratchers. I ate a delicious meal of roasted Mediterranean vegetables and cous cous, Mum went for the lamb shank. Mums lamb was huge but not very hot, otherwise the meal was great. All through the meal Mum had a clear view of the start of tomorrow’s route, the parallel paths up to Boredale Hause highlighted by the setting sun; hopefully it didn’t interfere with her digestion.

Back at Barco House it was still too hot too sleep under the covers, it seems such a waste of laundry.

Thought for the day:
Deb – what a treat to see the Lake District in such perfect weather
Mum – plenty of time today to realise that Patterdale would be a great place for a family holiday with all the grandchildren.

 

Pictures


A misty start up Tongue Gill


Nearing Grisedale Hause


Deb at Grisedale tarn with Dollywaggon Pike behind


Ruthwaite Lodge


On our way down into Patterdale


The valley route into Patterdale


Grisedale


Looking back up the valley to St. Sunday Crag just above Braesteads Farm


Evening light on Ullswater


The setting sun over Ullswater highlighting tomorrows route
 

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